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The final defeat of the Jacobites under Bonnie Prince Charlie at Culloden Moor in 1746 was a disaster for the highlanders, and for the tartan which they wore. Seen as a symbol of rebellion, its wearing in the highlands was banned soon after Culloden by the Dress Act, which was not repealed until 1782.
Tartan History
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But whatever tartan history might tell us, there is no reason that a tartan should not now be associated with a particular clan. Countless Scots – as well as countless others of Scottish ancestry – take pride in wearing their clan tartans. Tartan ties and tartan scarves as well as kilts proclaim their allegiance.
In the twenty-first century mind, clans and tartans are linked as closely as football clubs and colours, but this notion is less than two hundred years old. There were no clan tartans for the highlanders who fought at Culloden Moor.
The myths about tartan being as colourful as the material itself, it seems almost churlish to insist on accurate tartan history. But to prefer romantic legend to hard and often bloody fact does a disservice to the men who died at Culloden Moor, and to a way of life which died with them.
It was in the Scottish lowlands during the time of its proscription in the highlands that tartan began to take on the romantic aura which surrounds it to this day. No longer the everyday wear of common folk, it became something of a luxury, and many new patterns were invented.
Tartan Shops and Their Wares
Tartan has crossed the Atlantic and colonised the world, and there is no restriction on who may wear it. Tartan shops are at liberty to sell any tartan to anyone. As is only righ
Clans and Tartans
Tartan is in essence very simple – a multicoloured chequered pattern repeated as often as necessary to make a garment. It has a unique association with Scotland, but the earliest example of material woven in the manner of tartan (and thus tartan in all but name) comes from China, and dates back three thousand years. Scotland’s tartan history, by contrast, begins only with the Falkirk tartan of the mid third century AD.
Culloden Moor and the Dress Act
Tartans of the sort that might be used by today’s kilt maker, and seen in today’s tartan shops, seem not to have existed in Scotland before the sixteenth century. But by 1600, there are many references to chequered plaids*, which are pretty clearly tartan.
There are those who claim that clan tartans should be worn only by clan members, but there is no authority for this. And no attempt to enforce such a rule could ever succeed in the face of the inevitable bitter opposition of the kilt maker, the tartan shops and other vested interests.
It received its greatest boost when King George IV visited Edinburgh in 1822. Sir Walter Scott Puma Clydes, who played a major part in organising the royal visit, shamelessly indulged the romantic streak which he shared with the monarch, and highland dress became enormously popular. The kilt maker had a field day, and the link between clans and tartans was firmly established.
Tartan’s reign in the Scottish highlands lasted less than 200 years. The highlands were the heartland of the Jacobites, who, after King James II was deposed in 1688, for nearly sixty years fought bitterly for the restoration of the Stuart monarchy.
Historical authenticity had nothing to do with it. Back in the days before Culloden Moor puma complete ventis, the notion of clan tartans did not exist. Individuals wore whatever pattern they chose. Clans and tartans were not matched.
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